mountainz.co.nz

kester · Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 83

Ki Ora

The Climber 69 is currently being printed, it's fairly rock orientated this time (as opposed to alpine/mountain/snow stuff) and I thought it would be interesting to hear what mountainz forum people think of the mag.

Is there anything people would like to see more/less of?
Too much sport climbing coverage?
Not enough?
Does anyone have any ideas or requests for the type of content they'd like to see in there? Article ideas? Particularly inspiring authors? General impressions?

Would love to hear your thoughts.

Cheers

Chris · Joined: 09 Jun 2006 Posts: 34 Location: Auckland

Hi Kester,

I do recall a thread on this topic here last year:

http://www.mountainz.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=750&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=climber

Graham · Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 225 Location: In the rain

Hey Kester
I'm always keener on alpine and ice climbing articles than I am on either sport or bouldering (some is okay). Expedition articles are cool too.
Rock and Ice used to have a section called Goldline in which they published some more historical articles - I really enjoyed that, too bad they took it out.

Maybe more space devoted to new routes etc...?

High quality writing I think is a must - poor writing destroys the story, no matter how cool the climb is.

More gear reviews?

Hope that helps - it's nice to be asked for feedback!

Graham

Wild Mountain Thyme · Joined: 29 Aug 2009 Posts: 56 Location: Hobbiton

I read someones copy of Climber issue 68 a couple of days ago and I couldn't find any alpine climbing news, apart from a ski running ascent or Rolleston low peak.
I've been out of the scene for a decade but there was always something that someone had done to read about. Now it's all about sportclimbing. I don't read the bouldering articles, I've already seen on YouTube that guy that broke his leg at Castle Hill, and his crybaby mates.

I think that people must be still out there doing stuff in the mountains but they just can't be bothered sending it in anymore because it seems to be a waste of time.

Mike Peat · Joined: 18 Jul 2007 Posts: 139 Location: Wellington

I think the content needs to be balanced 50/50 between rock & alpine/ice. In winter there will probably be more ice and less alpine but there should be enough rock news going year round.

In recent years I've felt that the mag has been heavily slanted toward covering the activities of a small group doing hard sport routes on essentially the same lump of rock. Now I don't want to be down on that group because they are doing good stuff, and definitely worth an article but do they always need to scoop the feature and the cover pic? It just seems to me that not enough is done to request articles from other contributors which might lead to a little more balance.

Until I recently resigned from the NZAC (that's another story) I'd been a member for 19 years and was never once asked for an article either directly or by way of a general request to the floor at a section night. Maybe that's because I'm a rubbish writer or never do anything newsworthy? The point is that there are probably many others like me who might actually be doing something newsworthy who don't have any forum to submit articles or news for consideration.

If you want more news and more diverse articles then you should be putting the acid on section committees who know of good stuff done by their local people to directly approach these folk about writing brief trip reports. If any of the trip reports show promise you could then follow up and try to expand this into an article.

Francesca · Joined: 13 Jun 2008 Posts: 714

pete · Joined: 24 Jul 2009 Posts: 31 Location: Invers

Hi Kester
I thought some of the stuff in the past few climbers was O.K. The article on Al Walkers little ice axe ‘Taonga’ was better than your average. It was nice to see some fresh faces instead of the same ‘beautiful people’ all the time, even if they are your friends.
I would like to see some of the ‘old timers ‘revisited before their obituaries are in print. Get some of their views about how they feel the world of climbing has changed. Get some good stories out of them. i.e. More than 300 words or so, which is all you gave to John Cocks and Peter Strang.
My kids would like to see some more humour and some people smiling. Maybe even some blood split.
Apart from what is in 68 I can only remember 2 other stories from the last couple of years. ‘The’ Pat Deavoll knee story, and the bina through the hand. However we do look forward to the next issue.

The Guyser · Joined: 02 Mar 2006 Posts: 91 Location: CHCH

I once offered content to Mark and he made no bones that if it wasn't an FA or super significant ascent he wasn't interested...I had a think about this and I gotta say I totally agree...!!

Careful you don't democratise the mag too much - I don't want to read about weekend warriors and clubbies strugglin' on Rolleston or Ruapehu (yawn). Hey, we can all read about that on Mountainz Laughing

Please no more articles on Everest.

More beautiful people!!!

kester · Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 83

Awesome, thanks heaps for the feedback.

It seems as though there is a pretty strong call for more alpine content and more stories about moderate climbs, good old climbing yarns, mountaineering history, that sort of thing.

To everyone who reads this — please please please don't feel like any stories/articles/photos you have are not worth sending in. If you have even one good picture, send it to us, if you have a few - write an article!

For the news section, Guy is pretty much on the money, we like to report new routes and significant ascents mostly.
But the news is only one department in the mag and there is plenty of room for any and all ideas that folk have, so keep the ideas coming, and when you've had a read of 69, let me know what you think.

Cheers

craigm · Joined: 04 May 2004 Posts: 308 Location: Taupo

I suspect the alpine bias is because of the nature of this website....
Ask a bouldering forum what they want and they wont be gunning for more alpine climbing. While i agree with the news covering significant new ascents i do like to read stories by people who have done trips that i feel i could do - these might be moderate overseas climbs or just cool places to visit. I don't really get inspired by reading stories by elite climbers (although i admire their accomplishments). I'm also kind of over seeing arty mountain shots on the cover. How about some good action photos!!

Mike Peat · Joined: 18 Jul 2007 Posts: 139 Location: Wellington

Even unsexy people do some good stuff. Would be good to get more of the less important FA's and/or rare ascents of classic routes reported under an "area report" with a sentence or two per climb. Seems like very little of what gets done makes it to print. That was always one of my favourite parts of the old Mountain mag, makes the climbing scene appear more vibrant too.

cragrat · Joined: 06 May 2005 Posts: 564

Remember the Editor is actually at the end of the food chain and only gets what is given - I think that if people actually either submit or encourage others to there will be a wider range of content to choose from.

Either way people need to want to write about it. Mark (and Kester) may only hear about the significant events but it's up to you out there to push things to the front that may be of interest.

Francesca · Joined: 13 Jun 2008 Posts: 714

Wild Mountain Thyme · Joined: 29 Aug 2009 Posts: 56 Location: Hobbiton

I would only read Climber to keep up to date with significant alpine climbs, whereas the CMC which I belong to, tends only to include local information.
I would hope that the mountaiNZ site could become the first port of call for alpine climbing news, updates, and what Guy, Al, Al, Nick and his peers/proteges, and others have been up to.

cragrat · Joined: 06 May 2005 Posts: 564