The Development of South Wye

Sally Ford describes the development of South Wye, one of the new climbing areas detailed in the new Wakatipu Rock, Ice and Mixed guidebook.

When talking to people about developing the climbs, they would often comment 'I’d love to do something like that'. That’s when I knew they weren’t thinking about cutting tracks or lugging hundreds of metres of static rope, food, camping gear, drills, batteries, crowbars, shovels and the rack for nearly two hours uphill. Nor straining their backs rolling the huge rocks out of the bivvy, after digging them out to make a flat sleeping area. And this was all before we even got on the rock!

...It is so good to have such a great crag, look up at it and choose a line with only your imagination and skill as the limit. This is the first time I've been there right from the beginning and had the opportunity to be among the first on future classic lines.

East Rib of the Grand Pinnacle, Mt Ruapehu

On various visits to Ruapehu in 2005 & 2006 I noticed a rib of rock angling up from the east to join the summit of Whakapapa's Grand Pinnacle. The Tongariro guidebook is nicely vague on this area:

"It's unlikely that the eastern faces of the Grand Pinnacle remain unclimbed, but details are sketchy. In November 1972 John Maine, Mike Mongillo and Kevin Weatherall attempted a route: 'The rock is more dubious than the Te Heu Heu side - but a good snow covering enabled retreat.' "

Ailefroide…a rock climbing heaven kept secret!
Guillaume is our favourite rock climbing resident from the land of France. He is usually found on the rock around Queenstown, but get ready for a tour of one of his favourite regions near his hometown of Briancon in the French Alps. Take it away Guillaume…

Author: Guillaume Charton

Indian Summer at Hanging Rock
...I’ve been persistently bugging all-and- sundry to join me in weekend trips to Hanging Rock, just northeast of Fairlie. This limestone crag now rates as one of my favourite places around Methven ..

...Steep, juggy and delicious...

Author: Pip Walter, Methven, New Zealand

UPPER TAMA CRAG
This is such a great spot with loads of potential I realised I had to make it known, however I wouldn’t be surprised if somebody else has already climbed a route here. A lot of people probably know about the existence of a lot of really nice looking andesite cliffs between Upper Tama Lake and Ngauruhoe.

Author: Robert Frost, Auckland, New Zealand

Castle Rock at Coromandel a climber’s mini guide
Steep thick bush surrounds Castle Rock and the climbs are reached by abseiling from the top.

A bush track leads up from the forestry road to the top. Take the left fork at the top to the northern summit The view is magnificent.

The Slab on the East side has two multipitch routes...

Author: Ken Burgess, Auckland, New Zealand

Author: David Ackery, Auckland, New Zealand