This course is for anyone who is already comfortable with using ice axe and crampons and can look after themselves on the mountain. It is for those having mastered basic mountaineering techniques but wanting to advance to climbing technical mountains.

This is the third year that free technical climbing instruction will be held on Ruapehu. In the past there has been "basic" and "advanced" technical climbing weekends. Owing to the organiser's increasing prowess in the handling of group dynamics, there will be only one weekend this year and both courses will run simultaneously. Because the courses cannot run in poor weather, there is a back-up date one week later. If you are flying from the South Island or Australia then it may be a good idea to stay the entire nine days and climb like mad on the mountain (staying in the NZAC hut on Whakapapa skifield for instance). Just an idea.

Those who have attended previously are welcome to sign up again. There are no limits on numbers but please email me regarding your attendence so that you can be contacted in case of cancellation. If anyone would like to help with instruction then please (please, please) let me know. In addition, look at the description of the courses below and let me know which would suit your experience more. This won't mean you will get locked into the one course, it just gives me a better idea of what to plan for.

The courses are unique in that after a few hours instruction you go out and lead pitches all by yourself rather than having your hand held. You are likely to learn more in two days than you would on a two-week course costing thousands of dollars. These trips aren't "snow school trips" for beginners (the clubs already do these fabulously well) and thus require participants to look after themselves in terms of accommodation, travel, food, and gear (I don't arrange any of this) and having the experience to get themselves around the mountain. You need to work out your own expenses but the events themselves are free. There will be a thread on the www.mountainz.co.nz forum for anyone wanting to make arrangements (e.g., travel) with other people and I will let you know when this is ready for use.

The course will start on the Saturday at 10am at the NZAC hut on Delta Corner on the Whakapapa Skifield. Note that the hut is a 2-hour walk from the car park (or a quicker ride in the chairlift). We will finish early afternoon on the Sunday.

Basic Snow Climbing and Rope Techniques
You should already know how to use ice axe and crampons, navigate, belay, abseil and tie a few knots. We'll briefly go over alpine anchors then get into leading, leading with two ropes and simulclimbing. If there is any good ice about we'll have some top ropes set up and go over ice climbing techniques. Then it's off to the Pinnacles to put it all into practice, including night climbing for those inclined.

Advanced Leading
You should already be climbing grade 2 and be comfortable on steepish ground. We'll go over the same rope techniques as for the basic course but focus more on ice screw and piton placements, including how to place gear and set anchors while on your front-points. We'll cover mixed (thin ice and rock) climbing techniques and leashless climbing. We'll then jump on some good practice leads in the Pinnacles.

Contact: Glenn Pennycook
Email: mailtothechief@gmail.com